8:55 After Angela left just before 5 i went and slept in the bedroom because i was feeling kinda cold on the couch. When i woke up at 8:30 i went to the bathroom and somebody started a shower upstairs. I came at the computer to finish a search since last night and smoke filled the apartment. I went and plugger about 10 holes near the foundation, starting with one under the door. Now somebody is smoking cigarettes outside to cover it all.
9:40 So after the one yesterday, another mole gasser. I guess.
11:52 AlexaCrush
5:10 Last night i went to Walmart, twice. First, mainly to get oil for the car. Last time i used Quaker State unspecified which means most likely mineral. Did not leave much wax in the catch can however i believe it reduces mileage and i think i know how.
No i don't. Should have weigh them. Got the new bottle unopened, i can but i don't have the old one. It just seemed lighter to the hand. However internet seems to differ. They say synthetic oils have better fuel mileage because they are thinner or les viscous.
Thinking about the motion of the crankcase in oil and how much oil is heated by it let's say at 2000 rpm and how much energy is wasted just because of that (combustion engines suck). However the viscosity should be the same for the same numbers, like 10W30.
Fact is i get better mileage with synthetic for the same 5W20 viscosity recommended by manufacturer. I switched to mineral because i found wax in the catch can and was worried about clogging the condensation pipe with wax. No more wax, however visible lower mileage (5-10%). Now i'm trying to go with Quaker State Full Synthetic (recommended by Hyundai). 22 dollars vs 27 Mobile 1. Just for the heck of it, to see if it's got more or less wax than Mobile.
Ok so i got the oil, but while walking through the store i saw microwave ovens on sale. Last time when i went to Florence i had the meter with me and i saw the oven wasn't leaking much, like next to oven. Mine leaks like 10 times more. I saw there is a motion in the hinges after door is closed, i tapped it and fixed that, a bit of difference. So i said to myself, maybe there's a problem with the hinges and should get another one.
So i grabbed one of those, brand is MainStays, put it in the cart, it was 50 bucks at the checker. Installed it tonight and when i tried it, it put unbelievable amounts, (80 mW at one ft), like 4 times more than a phone or 10 times or more than the current one or 100 times or more than the one at the hotel. The hinge was moving as well, i tried to tape it with no difference (tape cannot close the gap in the hinge like the other one). So i'm packing it to take it back to Walmart, together with this little review.
6:00 PM. Earlier. Went outside, tightened the e-brake, jacked the car, pulled the right wheel, put the transmission on sequential in the 1st, 2nd and 3rd. There is a "beat" of the half shaft however i think it is not worse than in this video that was taken right after installation. I'm gonna leave it like that for now. Yeah i know should have taken another video to compare. Maybe another day.
10:37 The over 100 years old lead battery flimsy connector design. BTW, searching for it i ran into something else. The fact Edison's (the guy who invented the incandescent bulb) battery was used for miner's lamps proves that it was lighter and packed more power than lead.
But i guess... Our world's leader biggest priority is to burn the Earth a bit, like in St.Dominic's mothers dream.
Anyways. The nicest toy on my first Elantra was the in dash display of instant average mileage, which is actually a parameter of the computer, all they did was they brought it on the dashboard. Several times i noticed that after i fiddled with the battery connectors, during the first trip after that had a significant better mileage.
Things became clearer after i bought a lighter plug charger with voltage display. (My old truck has an analog one on dashboard). The voltage changed, again after tightening the connector. Cant remember the exact voltage but it did change. However, after one or two trips the voltage started to vary between 12 point something and 14 point something.
As soon as was tightening those, the voltage again became firm and was varying only with the degree (percentage) of battery charging or temperature outside.
So i started a long quest into securing those. The stock connectors made of brass where too soft for the job. I mean, you could tighten them at nominal and have the battery somehow charged and the car start, however, they could almost be moved around by hand, after a while.
To make a very long story short. Latest i came with is soldered bolts on top of the connector. However i kept the old system in place for safety through redundancy. Though i had to add a shim to the positive one cause it would not tighten anymore (connector wore out, became smaller).
Today again one of them broke. Had to bring the battery inside, solder it again, etc.. Was raining outside. I noticed the shim on the plus for some reason wasn't working no more, the connector would turn around. Wanted to show how you can solder a bolt on top of the connector, something that could be done more easily in factory, before the assemblage of the battery.
Actually, there are batteries that have an extra connector with bolts. The marine batteries. I would have been so happy to buy one of those. However, they are the other way around, plus is on the other side and the car's configuration does not allow it.
Here are some pictures of what i've done (again) tonight, with explanations. Biggest problem was the dial of the burner is malfunctioning and you have to fiddle with it to get it hot red or at max. Otherwise it wouldn't work.
First i filed the old connector with a file and 120 sandpaper. Added a tiny bit of flux on top to prevent oxidizing until.
Prepping the bolt. Bolt is handled all the time with a long nose plier. Filing and sanding then tinting and applying. I forgot to take the picture with the bolt on the red hot spiral burner of the electric stove. After heating for about one minute, i was pressing and rubbing against sandpaper, than heating again (about one minute), rubbing against a paper towel with flux, applying solder.
Repeating rubbing against paper towel with flux, applying solder (tinting) until the whole surface is covered with solder. One more heating and short rubbing against paper towel, applying solder, creating a (pulsating) bubble of solder with the bolt in final position (from underneath) so the bubble of solder would not fall when the bolt is turned around.
The connector is sandwiched between two nuts. Tightening is done with two wrenches (one on each nut) against each other without touching the bolt's hex end. Otherwise the solder joint might brake. The other ends of the connector. Negative goes to chassis, positive to the plates with cables.
11:45 Can't remember when i done it last time, i found one entry by search on the word solder on my blog. About a year ago. That would be about right.
11:57 Catch can V.7.01. If you look carefully in this picture you will see a shiny aluminum can conected to a shiny chrome corrugated pipe that goes to the valve cover.
Another careless design of the so called PCV system that releases and recycles the so called blow by gas created by leakage in the engine of the enormous pressure inside the combustion chamber passing the pistons' rings, into the intake manifold.
Blow by gas contains water and oil vapor and oil in the intake is bad news for valves, cause it combines with soot from the EGR valve (another recent improvement of the internal engines) and clogs the valves etc..
Another careless design of the so called PCV system that releases and recycles the so called blow by gas created by leakage in the engine of the enormous pressure inside the combustion chamber passing the pistons' rings, into the intake manifold.
Blow by gas contains water and oil vapor and oil in the intake is bad news for valves, cause it combines with soot from the EGR valve (another recent improvement of the internal engines) and clogs the valves etc..
Trouble is the newest desgin (V7.00) with the corrugated metal pipe is too good, it catches too much... water, which is a main component of blow by gas which mixes with oil and creates an emulsion in the catch can. When in enough amounts, like after a few hundred miles, and i think it all depends on the quality of the gasoline (cause at the last 200+ miles trip i had next to nothing, and the temperature were very low), there is a sizeable amount of emulsion there.
At the first sudden applying of the brakes, the emulsion moves in the can and floods the out port that goes to intake, defying the purpose to prevent water and oil getting there.
It is true, the can came with some sort of metal sponge to prevent that, however i don't trust it will not brake and possibly get in the engine.
So i had this idea to buy a chainmail cloth, used for cleaning dirty oily pans in the kitchen, made of stainless steel (the blow by gas is very corrosive) and put it in there. I tested it first in a glass of water, it displaces about 25% of it, reducing can's volume, just realized, i did not test it by moving the glass, hopefully it will prevent the emulsion from moving around too fast (making a splash) when applying brakes.
The alternative i guess is installing a deeper catch can, like the one i bough the first time and returned it because i thought it was too big. Or find a can that has too compartments, to prevent the emulsion from splashing.
This one's got a bronze filter that somehow obstructs the blow by gas. But that one cane be removed. Very interesting, but i have to look where i can install it cause it's long. And it also have a valve for emptying. Is that round piece of aluminum with holes a splash guard? Very nice for the price, there is a lot of manufacturing in there.
What kind of welding is that?
Just got an idea. Could drill a hole in the current can and attach an extra reservoir to it. Could be a 5/16 piece of hose closed to the other end. Once trapped in there, emulsion will never come out. Or easier, install a separator inside the can.
Got it. It's too short (1/2) inch) but i can raise it somehow. If the chainmail doesn't work.
At the first sudden applying of the brakes, the emulsion moves in the can and floods the out port that goes to intake, defying the purpose to prevent water and oil getting there.
It is true, the can came with some sort of metal sponge to prevent that, however i don't trust it will not brake and possibly get in the engine.
So i had this idea to buy a chainmail cloth, used for cleaning dirty oily pans in the kitchen, made of stainless steel (the blow by gas is very corrosive) and put it in there. I tested it first in a glass of water, it displaces about 25% of it, reducing can's volume, just realized, i did not test it by moving the glass, hopefully it will prevent the emulsion from moving around too fast (making a splash) when applying brakes.
The alternative i guess is installing a deeper catch can, like the one i bough the first time and returned it because i thought it was too big. Or find a can that has too compartments, to prevent the emulsion from splashing.
This one's got a bronze filter that somehow obstructs the blow by gas. But that one cane be removed. Very interesting, but i have to look where i can install it cause it's long. And it also have a valve for emptying. Is that round piece of aluminum with holes a splash guard? Very nice for the price, there is a lot of manufacturing in there.
What kind of welding is that?
Just got an idea. Could drill a hole in the current can and attach an extra reservoir to it. Could be a 5/16 piece of hose closed to the other end. Once trapped in there, emulsion will never come out. Or easier, install a separator inside the can.
Got it. It's too short (1/2) inch) but i can raise it somehow. If the chainmail doesn't work.
